Unusual steering lock issue

[twostickes2]

Megane II Cabriolet/Coupe '54 plate, 1.9 DCi
Ive seen all the usual issues and fixes with the steering lock ECU but I cant find my particular case!
The display says "steering not locked" and the steering wheel can be turned freely, but engine wont start and I need to keep reseting using the start button, and there are no clunks coming from the steering area. The car still wont start. I have also tried to loosen/remove the left hand threaded bolt and is quite free for about 8 turns, but then wont go any further, even with a fair bit a force, which seems to indicate that it is locked?
I simply cant figure this out, and not sure how to proceed!

Any advice welcome!

[grandadbobby]

Hi,
l am sorry l can't help you with this and never had the problem.
l do hope someone can help as l've seen other stories on here, but do please post your findings and resolution.
Good luck
Bob.

[twostickes2]

Thanks Bob,
Im now wondering if the main lock bolt has stopped mid-way so the wheel turns but the threaded bolt still cannot get past the lock bolt. There is no sound coming from the unit when I try to lock/unlock it, might suggest an electrical fault and its simply not even trying to move the lock at all, just my luck! Ill try to get a mobile auto electrician out today, might do a diagnosis to see if the unit is on the CAN bus or a blown fuse etc (Ive tested 2 fuses they seem ok).
I really don't want the mechanics to jump in and force the threaded bolt and possibly snap it - would be too much trouble and money to get it fixed after that!
Tony

[twostickes2]

I have now obtained a refurbished / uncoded / virgin lock from ebay, this might be useful to check if its a wiring fault and not the existing unit. However it doesnt do anything, same as the old one.
Im now assuming a wiring fault so I measured the pins on the connector ...
1. earth
2. (control+) 12V pulse for 1 second when START is pressed
3. (CAN H) 1.5V
4. (control-) 0V (but measured 30 ohm to earth)
5. (Engine Running from Prot and Sw unit) 0V - nothing even when start on/off, key inserted, pedals pressed, button on for 5 sec etc
6. (CAN L) 1.5V

For most pins this seems expected apart from Pin 5 - I dont know what to expect here. I measured it as 240 ohm to ground, so its not a short to ground.

Does anyone know what to expect on pin 5? Or does anyone have a wiring diagram of where this wire runs to?

Thanks,
Tony

[grandadbobby]

Hi Tony,
according to Haynes, pin 5 goes to fuse F5D (5amp) in engine multiplex module.
Bob.

[twostickes2]

Thanks Bob,
can you let me know where fuse F5D goes to, is it controlled by something? or just a fuse to 12V?
Tony

[twostickes2]

I since found out that the 5A fuse F5D also powers the injectors computer. Ive buzzed out the yellow wire from Pin 5 to the fuse and is a good connection and fuse is OK.

Correction to the voltages measured earlier.
When the plug is still connected to the lock, then Pin 2 is completely different! Now Im suspicious I dont get 12V to drive its motor anymore!

1. earth
2. (control+) 1.7V pulse for 1 second when START is pressed
3. (CAN H) 1.5V
4. (control-) 0V (but measured 30 ohm to earth)
5. (Engine Running from Prot and Sw unit) 0V - nothing even when start on/off, key inserted, pedals pressed, button on for 5 sec etc
6. (CAN L) 1.5V

Whatever is driving this fuse, seems to have a problem when under a small load. No idea what electrickery is being used to drive it.

Any ideas?

[grandadbobby]

Hi,
looking at Haynes wiring diagram this fuse F5D seems to be linked via a relay to fuse F5C (15amp) for reverse light switch.
with ignition on, you should get 12v at pin 5
the fuse must be ok if injection working, could be a broken wire between fuse and pin 5.
Can you give pin 5 12v using a 5amp fuse and see if it works.
Bob.

[twostickes2]

Thanks Bob for your help!
Ive checked the yellow wire from pin 5 to fuse F5D as is OK (shared with injectors, might be wire AP15), so ill check F5D as you say, and maybe check the reversing light to make sure there is power.
Ill also check pin 5 with 12V through a 5A fuse, good idea!.

Do you have a number for the relay you mentioned, so I can find it if necessary?
Thanks,
Tony

[grandadbobby]

Unfortunately Haynes doesn't even say it's a relay, let alone what number, but it's got the switch sign inside a box.
When you next look at the engine fuses, check the wiring underneath everything, they sometimes burn out right under the lower board out of sight.
lf there's continuity between pin and fuse, you should get volts reading.
Good luck
Bob.

[twostickes2]

I tried the test with connecting 12V via a fuse to pin 2. I got some life but didnt actually start the engine.
Im using an ebay part at the moment so I can see the lock pin. At one point I got it to move in and out, and the start cycle began with the glow plug symbol, just about ready to crank, then failed with Electronic Fault and stopped. Doh.
I also connected the plug back onto the existing unit that I cant get off. It also cycled the lock and did this several times, and tapping with a hammer, and moving the steering wheel, Im faily sure it tried to go to unlock position (and wheel is free to turn) but cant get the left handed bolt out! I think theres a mechanical problem too.
Just my luck, two faults at once! Now back to :

[grandadbobby]

You say you connected 12v to pin 2
ls that a type error, we were on about pin 5.
l presume you've checked the earth.
Can you follow wires from under the fuse to a relay and check that.
Bob.

[twostickes2]

I checked - I used pin 2, dont know why now.
I also got a message from the guy who sold me the new lock and asked me to do some tests, Ive stripped out the glove box and got to UCH 645 up inside, connector PPH2 pin 8 (yellow wire) and connected that to 12V via fuse, but didnt make a difference, but Ive got no idea what the pin is for anyway.
Im thinking this car is not worth the money a garage will charge me to fix it, and may scrap it if I dont see any life over the weekend, my wife is pulling her hair out now. Theres a small chance the local auto electrician can tow it out with his van, he might be able to have a quick look ill show him what ive done, if he cant sort it then i cant see me taking it to renault. Oh well.

[grandadbobby]

Hi,
that pin 5 should be active with ignition on, from what l can make out.
Apart from the earth, all other wires go to the interior module.
You've checked the 5amp fuse is ok, but is it live 12v.
l think the problem may be the relay that makes it live, if you can find it.
Check fuse for 12v with card in and messages happening, if dead, follow it's circuit in fuse board.
That's all l can think of.
Good luck
Bob.

[twostickes2]

Hi,
well I finally got the car mobile a couple of weeks ago, sorry I didnt post sooner.
It is now driveable by using an ebay supplied lock on the connector without it being attached to the steering column. The old one is still on the column but unwired and not causing any issues.
The car went to a local autoelectrician who ran the diagnosis, and fumbled around, and found a corroded cable joint somewhere in the harness, although I didnt get to find out which cable it was, and got it repaired.
So we can use the car now, but I guess I have to get the old lock off at some point, probably with a cold chisel haha! and put the new one in its place.
Incidentally, with everything working, the guy also tried the connector on the existing lock to loosen the bolt but there is no life at all, so no harm in breaking it off.

Thanks Bob for your help, you did get me to the point of knowing what was happening, and also helped the guy because Id already removed all the panels, and got me to get a new uncoded lock! You have been a great help,

Tony