injection fault on display?????

[Stevie67]

If the fuel pump has started to destroy itself, the evidence will be in the tank, I had to use a blunt screwdriver and a rubber hammer to ease the lid off the tank by gently tapping against one of the lugs, to unscrew the lid. If the pump has just started to fail, the metal filings may not of reached the filter yet, or if they have, they would be minute, like dust. The only other place that I found filings was inside the primer, I noticed that when I pressed it some fuel was escaping back down the feed pipe, it turned out that the filings were sitting on the bottom one way valve seat, allowing a small amount of fuel to go the wrong way. So it might be worth having a look at that, if you don't see fuel travelling the wrong way at the primer, I would suggest that the primer is good, there is no point in opening it, it can be done but it is a fiddly pain.
The primer doesn't go brick hard on these engines, there is always a route for the fuel to return to the tank, once you have removed all the air, you will just be pushing fuel straight back to the tank.
You say you are running at 30 bar, is the engine running nicely, is it running smoothly during driving, no loss of power or stalling? If so, maybe it is the pressure sensor, can you get a decent looking one from a breaker, just to compare the live data?
The bubbles in the fuel lines, do they disappear when the engine is running and warm, then return when the engine has been turned off and has cooled down? Are they in both the flow and return from the pump, or just the return? And what make of filter did you put on?
One other possibility is that the brake pedal switch is misbehaving, I have heard that a sticky switch can cause the ignition computer to starve the engine of fuel because the computer thinks that the car is slowing down, I don't know if that will bring up the injection fault warning. I believe the switch is in the left hand foot well, can you unplug it and test the switch with a multi-meter?

[Tomaz]

If the fuel pump has started to destroy itself, the evidence will be in the tank, I had to use a blunt screwdriver and a rubber hammer to ease the lid off the tank by gently tapping against one of the lugs, to unscrew the lid. If the pump has just started to fail, the metal filings may not of reached the filter yet, or if they have, they would be minute, like dust. The only other place that I found filings was inside the primer, I noticed that when I pressed it some fuel was escaping back down the feed pipe, it turned out that the filings were sitting on the bottom one way valve seat, allowing a small amount of fuel to go the wrong way. So it might be worth having a look at that, if you don't see fuel travelling the wrong way at the primer, I would suggest that the primer is good, there is no point in opening it, it can be done but it is a fiddly pain.
The primer doesn't go brick hard on these engines, there is always a route for the fuel to return to the tank, once you have removed all the air, you will just be pushing fuel straight back to the tank.
You say you are running at 30 bar, is the engine running nicely, is it running smoothly during driving, no loss of power or stalling? If so, maybe it is the pressure sensor, can you get a decent looking one from a breaker, just to compare the live data?
The bubbles in the fuel lines, do they disappear when the engine is running and warm, then return when the engine has been turned off and has cooled down? Are they in both the flow and return from the pump, or just the return? And what make of filter did you put on?
One other possibility is that the brake pedal switch is misbehaving, I have heard that a sticky switch can cause the ignition computer to starve the engine of fuel because the computer thinks that the car is slowing down, I don't know if that will bring up the injection fault warning. I believe the switch is in the left hand foot well, can you unplug it and test the switch with a multi-meter?

Morning... thanx for replay ... the thing is I don't know since when this injection fault is on the car ...cause I both like 6weeks ago first couple days was ok then starts showing ... it might be long time ago ..when I try contac previous owner he won't responded..I think he just happy get rid of it ... it's not like engine cuts out every time I start the car... but most it does ... doesn't matter cold or warm .... when I press primer looks going good direction ... but bubbles still the when engine warm and cold ... it's on flow and return pipes ... I heard that need to be renault make fuel filter cause some of them won't work good on it ... for now I got from eBay...red review about this all customers happy about this product... but anyway car is running nicely no loss of power or stalling .. no error messages while driving ... like I said just when start computer goes through checks and then cuts out with the mesage injection fault ... don't know man it's pissing me of ... car cheap and really don't wanna put lots of money in it ... think just gonna drive until it dies ...

[Stevie67]

From what you are saying I think that the pump sounds to be good, and you are getting bad data from a bad pressure switch. As for bubbles, you really should try and get rid of them, just keep priming it, then warm up and let the engine cool down then prime it again.

[Tomaz]

From what you are saying I think that the pump sounds to be good, and you are getting bad data from a bad pressure switch. As for bubbles, you really should try and get rid of them, just keep priming it, then warm up and let the engine cool down then prime it again.

I think too pump ok ... just back from a ride... had 3 4 times to start but then drives nice shows 40-50 mpg .... just when start like blue smoke came a lot I would say ...

[Stevie67]

I have seen loads of smoke on a few occasions, just after I have been bleeding it, I think it is just some fuel has been lying on top of the piston, smoke disappears after a few seconds.