Megane III inc. R.S.250 cabin filter replacement guide

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AlexB
Driving Legend
Posts: 4307
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2005 8:17 pm
Currently Drives:: Renaultsport R.S.250 Cup

Megane III inc. R.S.250 cabin filter replacement guide

Postby AlexB » Thu Oct 17, 2013 4:06 pm

It is not easy, apparently. Remove the trim near the clutch pedal, then loosen the clutch pedal itself (4 nuts, 2 connectors), then remove the cover of the filter (2 screws), then pull the filter. The factory manual rambles about some duct, it is not in the way... The photos are here:
http://www.frenchcarforum.co.uk/forum/v ... 22&t=44733
AlexB
(no, a different AlexB)

AlexB
Driving Legend
Posts: 4307
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2005 8:17 pm
Currently Drives:: Renaultsport R.S.250 Cup

Re: Megane III inc. R.S.250 cabin filter replacement guide

Postby AlexB » Tue Nov 26, 2013 10:36 pm

This took me a couple of hours, a lot of swearing and a bruise on my ribs. Don't attempt it without various wobbly extension bars t your 1/4'' socket set. You will also need long sockets. It will be quicker the next time.

The hole for the filter is smaller than the filter itself, and is hidden behind the aircon, where it can't be seen. You have to compress the filter a bit before pushing it in.
AlexB
(no, a different AlexB)

AlexB
Driving Legend
Posts: 4307
Joined: Tue Mar 22, 2005 8:17 pm
Currently Drives:: Renaultsport R.S.250 Cup

Re: Megane III inc. R.S.250 cabin filter replacement guide

Postby AlexB » Sat Oct 14, 2017 3:25 am

The same job again - took just over an hour, and bruises were avoided by padding the door sill with sheet foam. It is still a pig of a job...

The first step is to remove three pieces of plastic: pull the kick panel near the clutch pedal, pull the panel near the door with the airbag switch on it, then undo two screws and pull the panel above the pedals; in this order. It is different from the guide in the provided link. Removing the last panel helps significantly to access the upper nut of the clutch pedal assembly.

The plastic came off easily this time, because I lubricated the clips with silicone the previous time.

The next is to free the clutch pedal assembly and move it out of the way (it will still hang on a couple of pipes). It is attached with 4 nuts (long 13mm socket). The two lower nuts are easy, the third is accessed with a spanner, and the fourth upper nut is tricky. It can be accessed with a half a metre 1/4'' extension bar directed along the steering column. A magnetic pick up tool is useful to prevent the nut from being lost in the structure near the column. Most time is spent on locating the fourth nut.

Then the two screws holding the filter cover come out, which requires a torx bit on a long screwdriver, which is not too short and not too long... Having at hand a set of extension bars helps. Most time goes into locating the lid.

Then, locate and unlock the two locking "tongues" on the filter lid. Push the front one with a finger and pry the remote one with a screwdriver. Most time is spent on figuring out how to unlock the thing. The pedal is in the way, access and view are obstructed.

Then, pull the filter out. It is wider than the hole, so it has to be deformed. You grab it by collapsing its side...

Vacuum cleaner time!

Feeding the new filter back into the slot is a disturbing procedure as access and view are obstructed quite badly. It has to be deformed a bit to fit in the hole which is smaller that the filter. Hopefully, it has expanded inside, which is impossible to check.

Putting everything back is easy apart from the top nut of the pedal. I made it sit tight in the socket by attaching some insulating tape to the inside the socket. Then I fed the bar with the socket attached through the structure left from the steering column.

The old filter was wet and packed with debris. Replacing it made sense. Happy in the end.
AlexB
(no, a different AlexB)

giddyinoz
Posts: 1
Joined: Tue Dec 12, 2017 8:20 am

Re: Megane III inc. R.S.250 cabin filter replacement guide

Postby giddyinoz » Tue Dec 12, 2017 8:24 am

AlexB wrote:The same job again - took just over an hour, and bruises were avoided by padding the door sill with sheet foam. It is still a pig of a job...

The first step is to remove three pieces of plastic: pull the kick panel near the clutch pedal, pull the panel near the door with the airbag switch on it, then undo two screws and pull the panel above the pedals; in this order. It is different from the guide in the provided link. Removing the last panel helps significantly to access the upper nut of the clutch pedal assembly.

The plastic came off easily this time, because I lubricated the clips with silicone the previous time.

The next is to free the clutch pedal assembly and move it out of the way (it will still hang on a couple of pipes). It is attached with 4 nuts (long 13mm socket). The two lower nuts are easy, the third is accessed with a spanner, and the fourth upper nut is tricky. It can be accessed with a half a metre 1/4'' extension bar directed along the steering column. A magnetic pick up tool is useful to prevent the nut from being lost in the structure near the column. Most time is spent on locating the fourth nut.

Then the two screws holding the filter cover come out, which requires a torx bit on a long screwdriver, which is not too short and not too long... Having at hand a set of extension bars helps. Most time goes into locating the lid.

Then, locate and unlock the two locking "tongues" on the filter lid. Push the front one with a finger and pry the remote one with a screwdriver. Most time is spent on figuring out how to unlock the thing. The pedal is in the way, access and view are obstructed.

Then, pull the filter out. It is wider than the hole, so it has to be deformed. You grab it by collapsing its side...

Vacuum cleaner time!

Feeding the new filter back into the slot is a disturbing procedure as access and view are obstructed quite badly. It has to be deformed a bit to fit in the hole which is smaller that the filter. Hopefully, it has expanded inside, which is impossible to check.

Putting everything back is easy apart from the top nut of the pedal. I made it sit tight in the socket by attaching some insulating tape to the inside the socket. Then I fed the bar with the socket attached through the structure left from the steering column.

The old filter was wet and packed with debris. Replacing it made sense. Happy in the end.


Mate I can't thank you enough for this! I was just about to give changing my pollen filter one last go before admitting defeat and came across your method. Helped tremendously in getting to that last clutch screw which had daunted me earlier. A few extension bars later and I finally changed that darned filter after 2 years of trying.

Cheers and thanks for posting even in 2017!


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