The Mégane II Owners' Club

Hi all megane owners!

Im looking to upgrade my sub and amp as what I have, you want more!

Now the understanding of upgrading equipment comes the price of upgrading electrics. What is the maximum watts rms can the stock electrics handle before my alternator suffers?

If anyone has done the big 3 upgrade, how much in length is needed on a megane 1.9dci?

Any help would be brilliant!

Kind regards. Joe

Stock electrical cables? I would like to think that if you have a sub and amp you have added additional cables to your car from the battery. I used to run a 600rms sub which had 300 watt cables for power never noticed a problem and i even installed a volt meter and even on idle with the music playing used to only see it dip 2 volts so i wouldn't be worries about it unless you are planning on installing 3 or 4 subs

I think you have the wrong end of the stick mate. Iv got 4awg power and ground wiring plus its been all professionally install etc. Im going to be jumping up from 400w rms to 1000w rms.
So its alot I didnt know if stock electrics (alternator and standard 3 cables) will be up to it? If not, then I will need to upgrade the BIG 3 wiring and how much in length im going to need?
the big 3 insisting of ground wire engine block to chassis, negative to chassis and power to positive on battery from alternator.
If anyone has upgraded there BIG 3, how much length in cabling did you use?

For 1000w you going to want to run 0awg. Its about 1 meter alternator to battery then i saw 2 earth points under airbox which u need about 1-2 feet for each. I ran 3krms on stock alternator with just an extra battery in boot and was fine. A 210amp alternator is a straight swap but by no means easy. This is all on a 1.9dci.

You'd be able to get away with running 1k rms on 4awg on a run from engine bay to battery but I'd future proof and go 0awg so regardless of what you add next you won't need to re-run wiring. I use welding cable (50mm2) instead of 0awg cos it's about 1/4 of the price of the car audio shop pricing - only issue is it's an orangy colour sheath rather than a nice red. I've found if you talk nicely to welding supply shops, they'll sometimes crimp on ring terminals as well

Also depends on amp brands. Some marketing departments (like Boss Audio for example) get a little bit over enthusiastic about their product specifications.

No idea on what lengths you'd need

Cheers for the heads up!
I was planning on putting 0awg for the big 3 upgrade. Iv been on 'talk audio' forum and got told 4awg power should be fine.
I know its about future proofing and upgrade the power and ground from front of the car to the rear but WONT be going any further with mods.

In the next Motor il do a boot build but this is my daily driver and not too fussed with top notch everything. Just want it to work how it should.

Just purchased this amp:- https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source ... l12HtJifIA

And Im hoping to run a AA Chaos 800w rms.

Thanks guys for giving me the info!

So in total, how much length am I going to need for the big 3 under the bonet?

marshey wrote:For 1000w you going to want to run 0awg. Its about 1 meter alternator to battery then i saw 2 earth points under airbox which u need about 1-2 feet for each. I ran 3krms on stock alternator with just an extra battery in boot and was fine. A 210amp alternator is a straight swap but by no means easy. This is all on a 1.9dci.

Sorry from last reply, just noticed how much length you mentioned.
Would it be wrong to use all the same coloured. Iv seen that welding cable somewhere but got told its not exactly flexible. Would a 5m strip of wire do?

No real issues with welding cable colours. It comes in orange and black usually. I've previously used black cables and terminated with red heatshrink to denote power. The only problem arises when someone else is working on the car and they don't know the huge black cable running through the car is live - very minor risk but preferable to have the power as a reddish colour to denote it being live.

Talkaudio is a good place for info. **edit** just saw you'd bought the amp. Was suggesting Talkaudio classifieds for 2nd hand amp.

4awg is fine for that power so if you've decided you're definitely not going to upgrade then stick with that.

Thanks for the information everyone. Top tips from you all!

Alright there guys,

Iv just done the BIG 3 upgrade, well the BIG 2 ( alternator to + battery and chassis to - battery) as I cant get under the car to do the Engine to chassis.
Basically I dont have a tri-wing or triangle screw driver.

But all in all in used this stuff:-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300Amp-1m-Bat ... 257e077b52

I got 3m of length in total and they crimped them aswell for the same price. Bargin!

1x 1.3m of red power crimped each end with terminals
2x 0.85m of black earth crimped on both cables.

They are bang on length, so thankyou to the above for sizes!
I can highly recommended this stuff!

P.s does anyone know any tool to get the undertray off from under the engine bay. Its like a triangle and thought a tri-wing would do but its just rounding the screws.

Kind regards

joeysheff wrote:Alright there guys,

Iv just done the BIG 3 upgrade, well the BIG 2 ( alternator to + battery and chassis to - battery) as I cant get under the car to do the Engine to chassis.
Basically I dont have a tri-wing or triangle screw driver.

But all in all in used this stuff:-
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/300Amp-1m-Bat ... 257e077b52

I got 3m of length in total and they crimped them aswell for the same price. Bargin!

1x 1.3m of red power crimped each end with terminals
2x 0.85m of black earth crimped on both cables.

They are bang on length, so thankyou to the above for sizes!
I can highly recommended this stuff!

P.s does anyone know any tool to get the undertray off from under the engine bay. Its like a triangle and thought a tri-wing would do but its just rounding the screws.

Kind regards

Hi, have you already done the engine block to ground?